The Plover, by Brian Doyle. A hilarious yet thought-provoking novel had me sailing the high seas while on this 12 day voyage in the San Juan Islands aboard sv Sunny Afternoon.
Onboard is Skipper ML, Owner/Crabber/Fisher/Cook/etc; Client Declan (he’s an actively engaged client, usually), and me, Crew member Tilt (don’t ask)
Sunny Afternoon on a buoy in Snoring Cove, Sucia Island on a previous voyage.
Loading a very full dock cart early on the morning of July 15th, all my stuff fit nicely into the quarter berth, my own private space for the next 12 days. At times known as the Sick Bay as one can close oneself in with an accordion door. It’s not sound-proof, but is private. Fortunately, although we passed a nasty cold between us, my berth remained my sleeping quarters and was not used as a sick bay.
Some of the tools to help plan and navigate. Skipper ML and Client Declan keep helm watches pretty strict to rotating every half hour. Works great for staying alert, having dedicated time for chores and relaxing, and gives all an opportunity at the helm.
Day 1 gave us a nice headwind with a good angle for tacking towards Oak Bay, interspersed with motoring. Hours later, oh no! So many crab pots to dodge to get to our destination! We abort Plan A which would have included traversing the beautiful Port Townsend Channel. Instead we wind our way thru the obstacles to the east side of Marrowstone Island with a mooring buoy at Fort Worden in mind. Again! the dreaded crabpot bouys, bazillions of them! We make a game out of tacking thru and around them until finally motoring up to catch a buoy. Dock-mate P from Shilshole alerted us to the mess we’d encounter. Nice to have a scout out front. He is anchored here in the vicinity for the night in his beautiful green sailboat.
On an out-going tide rumor has it there’s no need to tie up when I take Time Out (SA’s sweet little dinghy) to shore.
Nevertheless, sweet little Time Out lures a little wavelet under her hull and in the wink of an eye she’s afloat and off on a brisk and lively drift away along the shoreline.
Fortunately, on board, our self-proclaimed ‘Client’, Declan observes this attempted escape and deftly launches a stand-up paddle board to give chase.
By the time I return from my unsuccessful sojourn to the store Time Out is lassoed with Declan standing watch over her. I will give no quarter in future forays to shore: I will always securely tie my transportation!
Motoring sailing gets us to where we want to go on Day 2: to the island of San Juan. Fortunate to be motoring since we have more control when we find a tugboat and big barge between us and the island. Freighters, tugs or any large commercial vessels usually run fast and have little maneuverability. And they frown upon or blow their horns at those who impede them – rules of the road are in their favor. The tug slowly gains on our starboard side. We finally decide to fall off and behind, happy to see tug and barge chugging away ahead of us.
Freighters loom large and move deceivingly fast. Fortunately the shipping lanes are identified on SA’s plotter giving us fair warning to steer clear of the lanes as much as possible.
Westcott Bay, adjacent to English Camp on San Juan Island is a popular anchorage and crabbing location. Skipper ML finds a great spot to anchor for the night. She also makes chicken wraps for dinner.
Above left is an English Garden at English Camp. Nearby is a Mother Tree Trunk with many offspring.
When Great Britain and the United States in 1859 agreed to jointly occupy San Juan Island until their water boundary was settled, they decided their camps should be on opposite ends of the island, 15 miles apart.
It was the killing of a pig which began this silly, expensive years-long dilemma known as The Pig War
A short and interesting read from the National Park Service: https://www.nps.gov/sajh/learn/historyculture/english-camp.htm
Before departing Westcott Bay/English Camp the following morning, Skipper ML and Client Declan rowed to shore and hiked up Young Hill while I paddle-boarded in and wandered the trails of English Camp. Ultimately walking a trail thru the woods out to The Net Shed Market and The Tide Tables Restaurant where one can also purchase oysters and/or mussels to go. I secured 3 pounds of mussels, walked the mile back to the SUP, paddled out to Sunny Afternoon and got those mussels cooling.
Our Client proved to be an excellent seafood cook preparing
Tonight’s Delicious Seafood Dinner.
Above photo: A siege (aka A LOT) of Great Blue Herons (GBH) would quietly fly from their daytime feeding grounds on the farmlands of the Skagit Valley to roost overnight in the evergreens on Saddlebag Island. Occasionally they would spook, all lift and scatter until danger passed. Most likely an eagle bothered them evening though it is not nesting season. Eagles predate on GBH’s eggs and chicks.
We heard and saw myriad of water fowl and song birds.
Skipper ML is also a garbage collector. Although not much flotsam to collect, we did pick up a plastic bottle which translates (hopefully) into whale sightings. It did! What we saw first were a collection of boats gathered in an area along with a small Whale Observation Boat hoisting a flag indicating whales are nearby. The ‘Observers’ also inform watcher’s of whale watching protocol if needed. We saw tall, black fins and a few puffs. Skipper ML and Client KB were previously awarded a Whale Observation Flag for excellent protocol while whale watching (Orca).
Stunning Turn Point Lighthouse on Stuart Island where conflicting currents cause turbulent sea conditions stretching far out off the point. A great place for marine life to congregate and feed with the churning of waters.
Clark Island Marine State Park has long been a favorite of sailors and kayakers. We saw multiple kayak groups paddling among the islands throughout our travels.
KB the Client jumped ship in Bellingham to hop on a bus to Seattle for a few days of respite. Much as we missed his hilarity, navigation skills and his sommelier skills, it was a chance for us gals to depend on our own confidence, competence, persistence and tenacity.
We, or at least I, identified multiple areas in which I need more knowledge and skills.
Sunny Afternoon is in the center of the photo here, anchored in Bellingham Bay where Skipper ML and I found fresh provisions for the next leg of the journey.
As Skipper ML and I motored away we found ourselves caught near-shore with the Bellingham Annual Sailboat Race racers bearing down on our stern. Racers under sail are FAST and their sails were getting larger by the moment causing us some concern.
Above, the racers are just starting to tack towards their mark, and more distance between us is created, whew!
Beautiful spinnakers billowing out for the downwind sprint!
July 15 – 28, 2025
Fort Worden, Port Townsend; Westcott Bay/English Camp, San Juan Island; Prevost Harbor, Stuart Island; Snoring Cover, Sucia Island; Clarke Island; Saddlebag Island, 2 nights; Bellingham Bay; Clark Island; Blind Bay 2 nights, Shaw Island; Saddlebag Island.
There was excellent crabbing at Saddlebag Island where Skipper ML landed 5 keepers, and a few days later had 9 large males in the trap. Two nights at Blind Island offered protection from high winds from the South.
Morning coffee with The Plover, delicious salads, chicken and seafood dinners paired with distinct wines, unbelievably beautifully scenery enjoyed among congeniality and much laughter.
A grand trip! Sunshine, good sailing, fun friends, delicious food – pretty ideal.
Tilt: nom de mer awarded to those most inclined to want the rail in the water – as in the zippy broad reach between Sinclair and Saddlebag.
We loved having you with us! Special thanks and kudos for dodging the fog, tossing anchors, studying currents and making delicious salads on the gals portion of the trip!