This day we each take our own time to reach the Port au Choix (pronounced schwaa) National Historic Site. This gives me time to wander for photos opportunities.
Arches Provincial Park
A 70-year-old Quebec woman, full-time RVer, found a unique way to carry her 16′ sea kayak. This is the only system I’ve encountered which appears manageable. She finds it works well, is secure and safe as long as one considers the need for extra room on the driver’s side and a foot or so off the stern.
Hundreds of remote fishing villages dot the coastlines of Newfoundland.
The Jewel of Today was a spontaneous drive through the town of Daniel’s Harbour. A 2021 Census put the population at 220 people. Small town, minimal services. The main attraction is the Nurse Myra Bennett Heritage House, information about her life, work, and what she meant to the communities up and down the coast.
Born in London 1890, she served as a nurse in England for 10 years before being persuaded to move to Newfoundland in 1900 by the NL Governor’s wife. Accepting a two-year contract she never left.
She helped deliver babies, trained women in midwifery, gave injections, changed dressings, attended to broken bones and other serious injuries. Her responsibility covered 200 miles up and down the coast, AND she raised 3 children, taught music, wrote letters for those who couldn’t. A tireless advocate for district improvements and for good causes and more
A Particularly Unique Experience Unfolds for me
Parked adjacent to the Myra Bennett House at the Post Office, a local man deliberately yet thoughtfully walked up to Lulu. We struck up conversation. He’s 70 years old, easy mannered, gentle speaking. Turns out he’s Jim Bennett, grandson of Myra Bennett. And a lawyer, the only (trial?) lawyer north of Corner Brook on the Great Northern Peninsula. Among my many questions and he being a learned man, he must know/have book titles to recommend on the history and culture of Newfoundland: non-fiction or historical fiction. He ponders, but it began to downpour while he’s standing outside Lulu. Long story short, he retrieved a couple boxes at the Post, I offered to drive him back up the hill, I reminded him about the book titles, he said he had something better and invited me into his home and offices. We commenced thoughtful, interesting conversation touching on many topics for the next hour or so. It was enlightening to hear his perspectives and opinions on politics local and abroad, his family history, work, marriage, everything.
Winston Churchill sits large as life above his desk.
I requested to take this photo. Cutting back on lawyer-ing to focus on more enjoyable passions perhaps this robe will begin to gather dust.
Ultimately I did not receive any book titles but rather he gifted me a copy of his grandmother’s posthumous autobiography titled My Story. It was put together (I gather by him and his father) from letters, journals and notes found after her death.
He gifted me three of his own novels as well.
A soft-spoken local, author, lawyer and more, it was a gem of a time spent with Jim only to be cut off to meet my previous commitment.The Bennett Lodge he’s having built at the south end of town should be open soon and will be a great place for lodging at the edge of the sea. GoogleJames Bennett Newfoundland
There’s more to this day.
The anticipated, and advertised guided walk to the ancient at Port au Choix National Historic Site is not. We’d hoped to gain knowledgeable information about the ancient settlements and burial sites in this archaeological site. The Visitor Center contains artifacts from four ancient cultures which can be fascinating and educational. But hearing the story from an educated guide as one stands in the midst of what was once, 4500 years ago, a vibrant community, one can feel, imagine and absorb what might have been. After whisking thru the Visitor Center I venture out for a drive to the trailhead for Philip’s Gardens, dwelling site of the Peleoeskimo people.
Dwelling site in the far field is full of ancient depressions where archaeologist digs uncovered treasured artifacts. Fossils are noticeable in shoreline boulders along the hike. Also, there appears to be silhouettes of caribou across the inlet. Hmmm.
The day ends with a dinner at the Anchor Cafe, where the service was great and the meal was so-so. However, the iOverlander site where we overnighted was exceptional!
Night-time accommodations overlooking the sea and serenaded to sleep by gently breaking surf.
