Meeting up with cousin Monica in Ashland, WI we started off with a walk-about and discussion of weather, interests, and our limited time. The weather didn’t look too great in any direction, so after an overnight in the marina parking lot, a long wait at the coffee shop and a short walk thru the Saturday Market, we left Monica’s car parked safely adjacent a Funeral Home and took our chances at Presque Isle Campground in the Porcupine Wilderness Mountains State Park. With a stop in Ironwood for pasties and beer for dinner tonight, we arrived unannounced at the campground to see a sign indicating ‘Campground Full’. Venturing in to the Check-in Office, Monica, while noting the ‘Campground Full’ sign inquired with Young Ranger at the desk as to any possible availability while Seasoned Ranger at the window dealing with never-ending day-use car travelers had us fully amused with his irreverent, yet hilarious comments. Monica’s spry interaction with him was entertaining as well. Perhaps his enjoyment for that sassy exchange reminded him of a site opening rather than just the walk-in which Young Ranger had been able to offer. Although we both have camping gear, and a walk-in site was doable, we were thankful for a site for Lulu. The overnight soaking the Tenters received was thorough. Darkness settled in while we enjoyed our evening supper by the lake. Pasties, a savory type of pie!
After leisurely taking morning coffee and breakfast (comfortably dry and warm indoors), we skipped the opportunity to hike in the rain and headed back down to Ashland pondering our next move. Over coffee and PIE! at Black Cat Coffee House we split up to drive both vehicles to Duluth where we’d meet and leave Sam, (Monica’s car) at Grandma’s (former) house and head up Lake Superior’s North Shore.
705 Woodland Ave. No longer the grand house of childhood memories.
Having a local navigator was fabulous. I have a whole new attitude about the North Shore where the forest, trails, and contemplative rock-sitting lies not too far beyond the crowded parking lots and visitor centers. Sunday, we camped at Gooseberry Point S.P. on the edge of Lake Superior, enjoying morning coffee on the rocks, contemplating the immensity of this largest freshwater lake in the world before setting off further north. Monday, the 4th of October another beautiful day of sunshine saw all the shore-side campgrounds full. Apparently locals and travelers alike know this good weather is on borrowed time. Tour Guide Monica knew of other suitable campgrounds not too far off the North Shore road in the Finland State Forest. We camped at Ekbek. Back at the Lake though, the hike of the day was a forested cliff walk in Tattagouche S.P. The Shovel Point Trail led us far from the crowds. At trails’ end we enjoyed sunshine, secluded rock-sitting and lake viewing.
Monica was able to extend her long weekend to one more night. We took full advantage by starting the day with our normal leisurely morning routine, then got right into a full day while driving back towards Duluth. A trail walk at Split Rock Lighthouse; a necessary stop at popular Betty’s Pies; take the scenic-scenic route and darn, miss an opportunity for a photo of Grandpa Gowan’s Train carrying tourists. It was very exciting to see! He’d have been the conductor on that train back in the day, but not just for tourists, for travelers.
To celebrate the anniversary of my Dad’s birthday, we clinked beer mugs and devoured a delicious meal at Historic Fitger’s Brewhouse where many of the Gowan family have stayed at, or enjoyed fine dining or simple brewhouse grub over the years. Emily & Erica kept up the tradition (unknowingly) and thoroughly enjoyed their stay here enroute to Pelican Lake earlier this summer.
One more overnight at Moose Lake Campground down Hwy 35 towards Minneapolis/St. Paul thus getting Monica a bit closer to the long drive to Rochester in the morning for work.
I however took a leisurely day getting to Rochester where I’d spend the next two nights parked at her place before we headed out again. In Rochester Lulu received a thorough washing, her tires inspected and rotated. And I was able to get acquainted somewhat to Rochester.
Mississippi River Bluffs
Our next extended weekend outing took us along the Mississippi River! Camped at Frontenac, we were glad the late evening hullabaloo was from elated children rather than intoxicated adults. A morning walk along the cliffs’ edge of the river was a good introduction of more cliff walks to come. A drive to Red Wing, MN where SURPRISE! it’s the Fall Festival with sidewalk sales, a street fair, food, etc. We partook in the festivities, kinda, before our steep hike up Barn Bluff. With commanding views of the town, the river, and extensive 360 degree views beyond, it was a worthy hike, even with the constant Sunday traffic noise and plenty of other hikers on the trail. It was a welcome leg stretch before driving further on to Maidenrock Cidery up in the hills. We were going for a late afternoon wine tasting… at a cidery!
Action on the River 
Outdoor Dinner: pizza PIE!
The late afternoon wine tasting was followed by a fun outdoor meal at Villa Bellezza in Pepin. Street-side parking for slumber and next morning we’re off to Stockholm to the Bogus Creek Bakery. A more theatrical proprietress has never been seen, explaining tantalizing attributes for each of the beautiful breads with drama, hand waving and facial expressions of love. It indeed, was very delicious bread! Same day, further on down the road we take an unexpected left turn in to the hills to investigate The Stone Barn for future ‘Monica adventures’. Outdoors, under protective cover, in rolling hillsides covered with corn fields. A nice destination for an afternoon in the country.
And yet another stop high above the Mississippi River at Buena Vista look-out.
One more night out at Great River Bluff State Park where we were lucky to see white pelicans migrating south along the Mississippi River flyway.
These last few days together had us enjoying bakeries, wine tasting, dinners out, and fantastic views from high on bluffs along the Mississippi River in Minnesota.
After returning Monica to Rochester, the next day we waved goodbye. It was time for Lulu and me to begin our own journey down the Great River Road.
Love this – hikes and great food breaks! What could be more pleasurable.